jeudi 3 juin 2010

Mongolie, petit a petit...


Saina Baina uu! Bonjour en Mongol...

Je suis bien silencieuse depuis presque une semaine en Mongolie et ne vous gratifie que de quelques flash-back trans-syberiens mais il faut dire qu'il y a eu pas mal de chamboulements!

Tout d'abord Isaac est rentre chez lui lundi, Christelle nous a retrouve mardi matin puis ce fut tour de David et Gerardo de nous abandonner mercredi...! Alors que nous etions en Guest House alors que les mecs etaient la, nous somme ensuite partie en Couch Surfing chez Tsetsegee une Mongole de 45 ans qui gere une ecole d'anglais.
Ensuite, quelques problemes de sante ont fait leur apparition, un ramassi de symptomes varies et opposes qui m'ont un peu preocuppee et beaucuop derangee. Je crois que j'ai eu une mini infection urinaire accompagnee de gros frissons bizarres qui me herissaient les poils, agremente de petites nausees et d'un ventre tout gonfle, bref, bizarre! J'ai finalement opte pour le traitement anti-sistite et si je suis assise dans ce cyber maintenant c'est que mon etat n'est pas catastrophique! Je ne parle pas de l'air pollue par le charbon des yourtes et la poussiere brassee par les "tempetes de sable" qui me cimentent les conduits respiratoires et m'enconmbrent les bronches!

Et enfin, ma preocupation principale; apres le reve de trans-syberien, vivre mon reve Mongol!
Pauvre petite fille naive et utopique que je suis... J'ai lu un livre avant de partir (Aylal, Une annee en Mongolie, de Linda Gardelle, dont j'ai deja parle a Helsinki), et je veux vivre la meme chose!
Seulement c'etait il y a 10 ans et c'etait une autre Mongolie! J'ai l'impression qu'Oulan Bator est COMPLETEMENT pourrie par le tourisme et la mode occidentale... L'apparence, les gros 4x4, faire du benefice sur le dos du touriste pour le foutre dans une jeep lui faire faire 3h de chameau, 4h de canasson, dormir 2 nuits dans une yourte pour 1000$ et il sera content! Dire aux jeunes filles toute inoocentes comme moi que la Mongolie est TREEEES dangereuse et qu'il ne faut surtout pas partir seule alors que quand on commence a rencontrer des VRAIS gens tout le monde dit que c'est completement faux!... Meme des locaux de confiance n'ont absolument pas eu l'air choques ou heberlues quand je leur ai dit que je pensais a partir seule en bus, et qu'au contraire les gens seraient ravis de m'aider et orienter.

Bref, comment faire la part des choses, je suis toujours partagee entre raison et passion, entends toujours les petites voix de ma famille et mes amis " fais attention a toi Anne!" Et j'ai ocille toute la semaine entre "j'envoie chier tout et tou le monde et me casse toute seule en bas et advienne que pourra" ou "je basse les bras et paie 500E pour 20 jours fr fake-Mongolia"...

Et j'ai encore opte pour un equilibre en decidant d'envoyer un appel au secours, utlime chance, sur couch surfing:

"Hi :)
First of all, I assume I'm sending the same email to a couple of persons but I think you'll understand why by reading it and please forgive me ;) And don't skip to quickly cause if you are not interested maybe one of your friends could be :) Well, I will try to be short and efficient!!
I'm a 24 years old french girl traveling by my own in Mongolia. My plan is to travel through the country by bus, meet locals, and live an authentic Mongolian (I hope) nomad's life. It means that I don't want to join a group of tourists or rent a car not really for a question of money or because I don't like my western compatriots ;) but because I came here with dreams of authenticity, simplicity, beauty, sharing, nature, peace... ect!! And I think that the better way for me to meet locals who are not already 'damaged' by tourism is to be alone with Mongolian(s).
So, here is exactly what I need: I would like to find someone speaking the basics of English, French or Spanish (no need to be an expert, we can take a dictionary! ;) who would accept to travel with me in the simplest conditions and be a kind of friend and translator!! I would like to go between the 5/8th and 25/29th of June approximately. I feel like going to the East maybe Kentyi, and if I have time to Altai. I LOVE riding horses and my passions are music and dance so that's what I would like to explore in the places I would visit but I'm flexible, if the person I would be traveling with has other ideas we can talk about it!
Concerning the tips, I can offer to pay that person 150$ for 3 weeks and pay for bus, food and accommodation when needed. If you think it's not fair we can also talk about it but I won't have a big margin, just because of my budget... ;)
If you are interested or if you know someone who could be interested please contact me as soon as possible by email by text msg on my phone.
Thanks in advance,
Kindly, Anne."

Et voila ce que j'ai recu ce matin.......

"
Dear Ann
I understand that you are young girl looking for someone to travel together with little budget, i like to support young people to expore new things all the time.
I would like to introduce myself to you first and suggest one idea if you like, you can do this.
My name is Beree and was born in Khubsgul in nomad's family and raised in a countryiside. Now i have married and used to work for few international organzation, deal with children and youth program in Monoglia for 11 years.
My family still live in contryside as nomad means my mom and one of my adopter brother, he is monk, 22 years old.
I think, you could visit to my mom's place and see lifestyles of regular Mongolian people's life there and also horse and other livestock are there and you could use it for free and also acomodation is free, but you could just bring some small amount of food from city in Mongolia that is it. My mom's life history is very interesting though you could make film or some other small diary ....if you like she is very special. becuse she was widowed when she was 29 years old with 8 children but she didn't give up life and worked very hard and raised more than 1000 livestock then finally she was awarded by Mongolian government.
Next recomendation is, if you like to travel around Mongolia, most beautiful place is Khubsgul every body could tell you that where you sould see fresh lake called "Khubsgul" which is considered one of the fresh and deepest lake in Asia.So you could find more information before you decide through internet.Maybe it is better than Khentei and Altai but Altai is also very interesting place, if you want i could ask my friend who live in this region to help you while you travel there.
If you like my ideas and rec, i could advice you and help you ok?
My contact is ******
Best Regards
Beree"

A part ca je vais aussi dejeuner avec une fille de mon age, consultante en environnement qui a deja voyage dans la campagne Mongole et qui est interessee par mon offre...

Bref, ca commence enfin a evoluer dans le sens ou je l'entends, j'aimerais partir mardi au plus tard (parce que lundi soir, soiree cours de Sevillanas avec un francais que j'ai rencontre qui a une gratte qui sait les jouer!!!)... J'espere que je ne m'emballe pas trop et que mon experience va prendre la tournure que je voulais lui donner. Ca va faire une semaine que je suis a Oulan Bator, il est temps que je m'envole!

(pas le tmps de me relire dsl...)

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